Monday 4th of February 2008 08:00:05 AM

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I had been warned, on going to Poland, that it was common practice for bars to charge admission for their toilets. I visited quite a few Kraków pubs, but CK Browar was the only one where taking a leak is a premium-price luxury. This, for me, totally put the dampers on what could have been a lovely place to drink the evening away.

The bar is in a long cavernous basement, with low tables on one side and high benches on the other. It's all low light and dark wood. Giraffes (your table's personal big tall beer tube with tap) are a specialty, though the four house beers aren't really all that impressive.

Kraków isn't a beer destination, and the visitor should be glad there's any alternative to dull Polish lager available. Come in when you've had enough vodka, but I doubt you'll stay long, counting your change every time your bladder fills up.