Wednesday 5th of December 2007 03:05:08 PM
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Wolfgang Hoess is from Austra, has been brewing beer for 30 years, even studied fermentation science in college...and still isn't sure if he's created the best lager.
That's all he makes at Alpine Brewery in tiny Oroville, Washington - an hour's drive from Twisp and a gnat's breath from the Canadian border.
Alpine is surprisingly huge with original copper kettle mash tuns in the window but now only for show. The real action goes on out of sight, in the back, past the empty and defunct brewpub, restaurant, bar and beer garden. Had to wonder why? Yes, the town is isolated but I thought here was wasted opportunity. What makes a town? Ultimately, it's people comprise the attitude, give it a personality and not what can be seen or done. This small burg of only 2000 has a facility that could help shape its identity in the 21st century. I have visited larger cities with wildly successful brewpubs one-quarter the size.
But as isolated as Wolfgang and his beers are, Seattle is still their major market and, with some effort, his Marzen, Pilsner, Oktoberfest & seasonals can be found...but never in bottles. Wolfgang doesn't bottle...he brews and therefore his beers are always fresh, crisp and as clean from the tap as they are from the kettles. That's how wife Persimmon & I had our taste.
Now I am an un-abashed lover of dark brews: never met a Porter I didn't like, and quite frankly can not fathom why so many beer drinkers remain loyal to those lightly-colored, highly carbonated drinks but these lagers were like none I have ever experienced. I suspect the Families Busch, Miller, Schlitz, Pabst and the rest intended their beer to taste exactly this way when first brewed 200(+) years ago. So what happened? Well, we all know what happened...these men were empire builders and that meant creating a product that could be loved & consumed by the masses. Something appealling to all -- offensive to none.
After tasting the beers of Wolfgang Hoess & Alpine Brewery, I had to wonder...these are
Full of flavor with good, creamy heads, each distinctive enough to separate it from its brothers and "this wouldn't appeal to everyone because...????"
My Daddy used to say "don't sit in the booth, in the back, in the corner, in the dark. Get out front...into the light...by the door. Sit in the front row. Get out of your rut. Experience life & all the differences." Sometimes Daddy wouldn't shut up but, thankfully I got his point a long time ago. So you keep doing what you're doing, Wolfgang and I will do my part by searching out the places where I can again have your incredible beers.
Selection: 3 |
Atmosphere: 3 |
Service: 0.25 |
Food: N/A