Tuesday 25th of February 2014 03:41:17 PM

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11-04-2010
Back to my old stomping grounds, West Division Street has changed a lot, even in the last ten years. Nelson Algren probably wouldn't recognize it today. Gone are the derelict storefronts and package goods dive bars, enter boutiques and bars like this one. The hanging metal sign out front reads B&L in a cryptic script.

Once inside, it's an open space, fairly modern, with ironic details to evoke a folksy charm, yet some elements come off as somewhat more isolated and sterile than rustic. Taxidermied animals perch atop a wooden cabinet storing a rotating selection of six 1/6th barrels, wall mounted deer head: check, lace curtains, brown glass chandeliers, lots of wood. The back hall to the restroom actually still smelled like the fresh cut wood planks it was paneled with. More inviting elements of the place: the pot belly stove in the back room with idyllic rural scenes painted overhead along the walls, and the comfortable bar.

Beer selection was good, some exclusive drafts like Goose Island Minx, Palo Santo, and Leipziger Gose. Draft and food menu were combined, and the bottle list was separate. Both were well designed, listing prices and tasting notes. The only thing missing was the size of each pour, which varied from 8 oz. to 16 oz. US craft was the main focus, rounded out with German, Belgian, and English imports. Other unique drafts: Meantime Stout, Jacobins Rouge, and Petrus Aged Pale. Certainly not a "typical" selection. The 32 draft lines were set into the brick wall, with uniform wooden handles and numbered plaques, which reminded me of the Publican.

Service was good, Eric the spirits director was our bartender. He offered samples of the drafts and was friendly and helpful. Never had a problem getting samples on several visits.

Food was good, mostly high end bar food... sausage-focused. Think Hot Dougs and Franks N' Dogs. Venison sausage was tasty, as was the pretzel with stout mustard, and the fries with a taleggio sauce were especially good.

A welcome addition to a transitioning, nearly 100% gentrified neighborhood.
Other nearby options: Piece, Jerry's, Smallbar, Handlebar, Rodan, Moonshine.